THE
WELSH COSTUME
by DR. ILID ANTHONY - Welsh Folk Museum
The Welsh National Costume is based on the
costumes worn by the rural working population of the late
eighteenth century. For women this consisted of a gown and
petticoat with neckerchief, white cap and hat. Several reasons
combined to cause the literary people of the first quarter of
the nineteenth century to consider these clothes common
throughout Europe, as the costume peculiar to Wales. Fashion in
dress changed in the towns and among the upper classes, but new
styles penetrated more slowly into the rural communities.
Therefore when other classes of society had moved to the Regency
costume, country people still wore the cloth made from their
local mills cut into the gown, petticoat and waistcoat.
The members of the literary societies who
studied the Welsh language and customs were anxious to find a
costume peculiar to Wales. The artists and students of the
Romantic era in literature and art had discovered Wales in the
eighteenth century. Many artists painted the people of Wales at
their daily work or in their homes. This gave rise to a general
feeling in everyone’s mind that everything in Wales from
costume, furniture, crafts -including the making of love spoons
-and wedding customs were all different and quaint. The
newly-born tourist traffic fostered this outlook. Picture
postcards and engravings prepared to sell to visitors showed
Welsh men and women going to market, coming out of chapels,
attending a wedding ceremony or receiving presents. The height
of the crown of the hats increased in each successive series of
cards produced during the mid-Victorian period. Welsh people
began to wear the tall hats in the holiday season and at
festivals such as the eisteddfodau.
BEDGOWN AND PETTICOAT
(The skirt was originally called a “pais” or petticoat)
The most
important part of the dress of Welsh women living in rural
communities was the gown and petticoat. These continued to be
worn well into the nineteenth century in remote areas. Woollen
material woven at the local mill in either one colour or with
vertical stripes of black in it or of two contrasting colours,
was used. Sometimes the paintings of scenes of Welsh life show
the gown with a tailored look at the back, extending down to the
hem of the petticoat which is visible in front where the gown
has been folded back. Other examples of the gown show it as a
shorter garment, with a full skirt at the back as in a riding
jacket. The petticoat and gown are of the same colour in some
illustrations, but in others they are entirely different. Very
poor women wore a gown that was cut as a shapeless coat, which
could be pinned back when the wearer was working. Such a garment
was called a bedgown in all rural areas in England as well as in
Wales. Originally it was a simple garment worn by the elderly.
The word passed into the Welsh language and has come to be used
for all gowns worn with the Welsh costume.
FICHU
The neckline of the gown was cut low, as in all gowns of the
eighteenth century, therefore, the edge of the white chemise
could be seen above it. A white linen or muslin fichu was worn
round the neck or a small square neckerchief. This could also be
checked or striped, but later it could be purchased in the
markets held in the Welsh towns and these had a paisley or
another pattern printed on them.
THE HAT AND
WHITE CAP
The hat developed to be
the most characteristic feature of the Welsh lady’s
costume when the height of the crown was extended
upwards. In all illustrations of the Welsh lady of the
eighteenth century, the beaver hat had a wide brim, but
the crown was no higher than that of a man’s top hat. It
was the desire to emphasise the distinctive fashion in
Wales that caused the height of the crown to be
exaggerated. There were other types of hat, such as the
straw hat, which survived in Gower and Pembrokeshire and
the crowned hats which are also seen in some
illustrations. A white frilled cap was worn indoors by
everyone at that period.
CLOAK AND WHITTLE
A cloak of red, blue,
green or grey cloth with a deep gathered hood was worn
in cold weather. However many figures wore a rectangular
piece of woollen cloth, often red in colour, over the
shoulders. This was called a “whittle” (shawl)
APRON
An apron, either white or of coloured flannel,
completed the normal dress.
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DANCE COSTUME FOR CHILDREN
The tradition of folk dancing is still
obviously enjoyed by children, it is still alive and
perpetuated. Tradition is not static but
ongoing and so is the
desire to identify the dancing with costume for festive
occasions. Therefore, as long as it does not result in a ‘fancy
dress’ outfit, it is perfectly sensible to wear a costume which
identifies as closely as possible with the traditions but
at the same time is a reflection of the present day
circumstances. If children wear costume outdoors in
the summer the weather may be very warm. Many more colours and
prints are easily available in lighter materials than the
traditional flannel.
If
you are just beginning to acquire costumes, then start with the
simplest of garments, as most dancing is displayed out of doors
during the summer and is of an energetic nature you can manage
without betgwns and waistcoats. These can be added later when
you decide whether you want to make them in traditional Welsh
flannel or in a cooler fabric. If using cooler fabric remember
to use natural or natural looking materials though, not shiny
nylon and polyester or other obviously man made fabrics. Keep
to traditional patterns and colours. Welsh clothes of the
period would have been made of home produced flannel and
linen, but cotton in a plain, stripe or check material would be
cheaper and more comfortable on a hot day. The boys' breeches
would have been made of corduroy and worn with a white
collarless shirt.
To make a simple costume with
a sufficiently good traditional appearance, the girls could wear
a long coloured skirt (plain, striped or checked) and white
blouse, with a white bonnet and long apron (not “waitress”
style). A shawl can be made from a coloured square folded
diagonally over the shoulders with a brooch pinning it to the
blouse at the front to stop the shawl sliding around as they
dance.
Welsh flannel 142cm wide can be bought from -
Melin Teifi
Dre-fach Felindre
Llandysul,
Dyfed
SA44 5UP
Tel: 01559 371 003 |
Curlew Weavers
Troedyraur
Rhydlewis
Ceredigion
SA44 5RL
Tel: 01239 851 357 |
Bryncir Woollen Mill
Ltd
Golan
Garndolbenmaen
Gwynedd
LL519YU
Tel: 01766 530
236 |
for
more detailed information on making costume for children
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